 한탄강의 보석, 다락터를 향해 한탄강의 보석, 다락터를 향해
즐거운 한탄강으로의 여행 2
여러 이야기를 담은 곳, 사연이 많은 곳. 50년 동안 사람들이 걸음이 닿지 않은 곳으로 들어갔다. 다락터(樓岱)라고 불리는 그곳은 50년 이상 민간인 통제지역으로 아직 사람들에게 널리 알려지지 않았으며 자연 그대로의 모습을 간직하고 있었다.
이번에 방문한 곳은 행정구역으로 경기 연천군 부곡리와 포천시 신흥리 지역으로 다락터라는 이름으로 알려져 있고, 한탄강댐 건설 후 수몰되는 지역이다.
사람 키 만한 억새숲을 지나
보개산 남쪽의 입구를 통해 다락터로 들어가는 길. 한참을 지나 한가득 억새가 자란 숲을 지났다. 처음에 억새숲을 지난다 할 때 작은 군락정도를 예상했으나, 해발 80m 내외의 평평하고 넓은 지역의 약 30만평 전체가 모두 억새였다.
어떻게해서 이 지역에 이런 억새숲이 형성되었을까? 한탄강 네트워크의 이우형팀장님은 “그 이유는 단 하나 지난 50년간 민간인의 손길이 닿지 않았기 때문입니다. 지난 1950년대 중반부터 운영되기 시작한 동양 최대의 다락터 사격장이 이와 같은 특이하고 보존가치가 매우 높은 원시 모습의 환경을 형성한 것입니다”라고 하셨다.
▲ 설명을 해주시는 이우형 선생님 ⓒ프로메테우스 유정우
평원 전체에 금빛 억새가 키만큼 자라있었다. 길도 제대로 나 있지 않은 곳, 아직은 좀 거칠은 억새를 헤치며 지나갔다. 곳곳에 작은 웅덩이들이 있었고 포탄들도 종종 발견되었다. 그런 증거들이 아니었다면 이 아름다운 곳 근처에 군사용 사격장이 있다는 것을 상상도 못했을 것이다.
우리나라에도 몇몇 억새감상하기 좋은 산들이 있는데, 이곳 역시 그러하다. 게다가 50여 년간 사람의 손길이 없던 터라 그 자연스러움은 더 빛을 발했다. '가을이 되어 은빛을 발하게 되면 그 아름다움은 더하겠지.'
▲ 다락터 근처의 억대숲, 키만한 억대가 넓게 펼쳐져 있다 ⓒ한탄강 네트워크 이우형
협곡에 협곡, 줄지은 주상절리
급경사를 이루는 깊은 골짜기. 지반의 융기와 침식으로 형성된 협곡은 한탄강 전체를 이루고 있다. 강으로 내려가서 보기 전에는 협곡의 절경을 알 수가 없다. 한탄강 수면으로 내려가야 그 모습을 보여준다.
▲ 포천 멍우리 현무암 주상절리 석벽ⓒ프로메테우스 유정우
한탄강은 협곡 곳곳에서 주상절리를 볼 수 있다. 주상절리하면 사실 제주도가 먼저 떠오른다. 그러나 한탄강의 주상절리는 제주도보다 더 풍부하고 깊다고 해야할까. 이곳에서는 주상절리의 커튼 사이로 지나는 느낌이다.
주상절리는 용암의 활동으로 생긴 것으로 단면의 형태가 육각형 내지 삼각형으로 긴 기둥 모양을 이루고 있다. 이런 주상절리가 하나의 벽처럼 형성되어 있어 그 이름도 주상절리 석벽이다. 그 높이가 짧게는 30m에서 최대 70m까지 된다.
돌이 물처럼 흐르다 멈추면서 만들어 진 듯, 하나하나 살아있는 것 같다. 그 틈새로 돌단풍도 자라고 있었다. 그 틈에서 단풍모양의 잎을 피워내는 모습이 꼭 자기가 있어야 할 자리에 있는 모양이다.
▲ 주상절리의 모습을 잘 보여준다 ⓒ한탄강 네트워크 이우형
야생동물, 삶의 터전
사람의 손길이 거의 닿지 않은 곳이라 그런지 경관 자체가 눈에 새롭다. 70m 절벽위에서도 큰 물고기가 훤히 들여다보인다. 그 높이에서도 보일 정도니 왠만한 어른 팔뚝정도라고 한다. 또한 물이 얼마나 맑기에 그 높이에서도 물고기가 보일까.
멧돼지가 피부관리 겸 영역표시를 위해 등을 긁은 소나무도 있었고, 건너편 모래사장에는 선명히 찍힌 수달 및 고라니의 발자국도 있었다. 우리나라에서 이렇게 야생동물의 살아있는 모습을 앞으로 어디에서 보겠는가.
▲ 부곡리에서 내려다 본 한탄강의 모습 ⓒ프로메테우스 유정우
달이나 고라니 외에도 멧돼지, 삵, 노루, 대륙목도리담비 등도 있다고 한다. 특히 수달은 우리나라에서 천연기념물로 지정되어있다.
그렇게 발자국을 보던 사이, 누군가 “어, 수리부엉이다!” 라는 소리와 함께 갈색 빛의 큰 새가 뒷모습을 보이며 날아가지 않는가. 낮이라 모습을 보기 힘든데, 우리에게 그 모습을 드러내주었다. 반대편으로 날아간 쪽을 보며 사진에 담으려 기다려 보았지만 다시 날아오르지는 않았다.
원래 코스를 다 돌아보지도 못하고 이렇게 둘러보는 것만으로도 7여 시간이 걸렸다. 20여km를 걸으며 글에 다 담지 못한 참 다양한 모습을 보았다. 정말 재주 많은 한탄강이다. 다양하고 건강함을 간직한 이곳을 하나하나 둘러보지 못한 아쉬움을 뒤로한 채 돌아섰다.
진정한 생태하천의 모습을 가지고 있는 한탄강. 요즘 생태하천이 유행처럼 번지고 있는데 한탄강이야말로 ‘생태하천’의 본 모습을 가지고 있다. 매끈한 아스팔트로 하천 주변을 두르며 체육 시설 및 편의 시설로 둘러쌓인 그런 모습이 아니다. 살아 숨쉬는 강의 모습, 아직 우리나라에 남아 있다.
※ 환경연합에서는 5월 12일(토) 회원 및 일반 시민분들과 함게 한탄강에 방문하고자 합니다. 이 멋진 모습 함께 가보고 싶으신 분들은 문의해주세요(02-735-7000 / dada@kfem.or.kr).
글 : 김예주(환경연합 물하천센터)
담당 : 환경연합 물하천센터 이철재 국장
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