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한탄강댐 건설반대 철원군대책위원회 |
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 이름: 김추윤 신흥대학 교수님의글임
2005/5/3(화)
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 北 강원도 백자산 작은 물줄기 350里 적시며… 큰 강물 이루다
北 강원도 백자산 작은 물줄기 350里 적시며… 큰 강물 이루다
모든 강에는 시원지가 있다. 거대한 황하강도 시원을 찾아 들어가 보면 작은 쪽샘에 불과하다. 그리고 제 각각 흐르는 모든 강들은 산에서 발원해 끝은 바다에서 하나로 만난다.
그동안 한탄강의 발원지에 대해서는 의견이 분분했다. 발원지가 북한이란 것 외에 한가지로 통일되지 않은 채 각 기관마다 지명이 달리 표기돼 왔다.
‘그대가 원하는 곳이면 어디든지 가보라’는 인도 시인 카비르의 말만 믿고 철원·포천·연천 1:50,000 지형도를 들고 강의 발원지를 찾아 나섰다. 그러나 취재진이 갈 수 있는 곳은 한계가 있었다. 우리 땅이면서도 우리 땅이 아닌 곳, DMZ(비무장지대)가 딱 버티고 가로막았다. 갈 수 있는 곳은 강원도 철원군 동송읍 양지리까지가 고작이었고, 이도 군의 사전 허락없이는 취재가 불가능했다.
민통선안 넓은 철원평야 옆으로 한탄강이 숨은 듯 보이지 않게 흐르고 있었다. 이곳에서 만난 신재록씨(73·철원군 갈말읍 정연리 구 250호)는 북한에서 흘러 남한의 또다른 강과 만나는 곳을 안내해 주었다. “여기가 평강땅, 김화땅, 철원땅이 서로 만나는 철의 삼각지여”
제방 위에서 보니 김화 남대천이 유입돼 평강에서 흘러온 한탄강과 만나는 Y자 모양의 합수지점이었다. 이 합수지점을 중심으로 예전에는 서쪽이 평강, 북쪽이 김화, 동쪽이 철원땅이었다. 인근 한탄강 위에 삼합교(三合橋)가 있는데 이 다리 명칭도 여기에서 유래된 것이다.
비무장지대의 민들레 벌판을 지나 달려온 한탄강이 남방한계선 바로 밑 정자연으로 유유히 흘러들었다. 사상과 이념을 초월한 듯, 아니면 전쟁의 상흔을 잊으려는 듯 숨죽여 흐르는 듯 했다. 취재는 여기까지. 한탄강을 따라 더 이상 북쪽으로 갈 수는 없었다. 강은 남북 분단의 벽을 도도히 넘어 흐르지만 그 시원지를 찾아갈 수는 없었다. 발원지인 백자산은 문헌으로 찾아야 했다.
고기록은 한탄강 발원지에 대해서 철령(鐵嶺), 쌍령(雙嶺), 분수령(分水嶺), 청화산(靑華山), 불정산(佛頂山) 등 다양하게 기술하고 있다. 당시에는 한탄강 상류에 해당되는 각각의 지천에 대한 정확한 길이를 확정할 수 없고, 또 한탄강 최상류가 옛 지도에 보면 크게 3지류로 나누어져 있어 기록자의 편의에 따라 발원지를 상이하게 기록했다. 강의 이름도 지역 구간에 따라 전천, 체천, 마흘천, 대탄강 등으로 불렀다.
중종 26년 (1531년)에 발간된 ‘신증 동국여지승람’의 철원 도호부편에 보면 ‘체천(石切川)은 부의 동쪽으로 20리에 있다. 근원이 회양부(淮陽府) 철령에서 나온다. 또 남쪽으로 흘러가서 경기 양주의 북쪽에 들어가 대탄(大灘)이 된다. 양쪽 언덕의 석벽이 다 계체(階石切;계단식 섬돌)와 같으므로 체천이라 이름하였다’라고 기록돼 있다.
즉 신증 동국여지승람에 의하면 한탄강의 발원지는 철령으로 되어있다. 철령(685m)은 강원도 회양군 하북면과 함경남도 안변군 위익면 사이에 있는 큰 고개로 옛부터 관북지방과 관동지방을 연결하고 경유하는 관문이다. 관북, 관서, 관동지방이란 말은 고려조에 윤관 장관이 철령의 험한 산세를 이용해 이 곳을 기점으로 각 방면별로 방어요새인 철관(鐵關)을 세우면서 세상에 널리 알려지게 되었다. 윤관 장군은 이 요새지에 축성을 하고 내침하는 여진족을 대파해 승리했다.
다산 정약용이 1814년 강진에서 유배생활을 하면서 53세에 지은 ‘대동수경(大東水經)’ 대수(帶水;현재의 임진강)편에 보면 한탄강에 대해 고문헌 가운데 가장 상세하게 기술해 놓고있다. 발원지에 대해 기록한 부분만을 발췌해 보면 아래와 같다.
‘체천의 물은 동으로부터 흘러와서 대수에 들어간다. 체수는 강원도 회양부의 쌍령(雙嶺)에서 발원하여 남으로 송관촌(松官村)을 지나 김화현에 이르러 북으로 말흘수가 되고 당탄(塘灘)이 되며 오신산(五神山) 아래를 지나서 장암(帳巖)의 광탄수(廣灘水) 및 자연담수(紫烟潭水)와 합류한다.(생략)’
이 기록으로 보아 정다산은 한탄강 최상류의 발원지를 쌍령으로 기록하고 있다. 쌍령은 분수령과 법수현 사이에 있는 고개로 옛날 남쪽의 평강으로 가는 주요 길목이다. 한탄강 최상류의 Y자형 지천 가운데 오른쪽 짧은 지천이 발원하는 곳이다. 즉 왼쪽 긴 지천이 한탄강에서 제일 긴데 장암산(長岩山, 1052m) 남서쪽, 즉 백자산 북쪽 사면에서 시원하여 현재 발원지로 보는 곳이다.
미수 허목(許穆 ;1595~1682)의 ‘화적연기(禾積淵記)’에는 체천에 대해서 아래와 같이 기록하고 있다. ‘체천의 물은 청화산(靑華山)에서 발원하여 화강(花江: 오성산에서 발원하는 김화 남대천)의 물과 합하고 육창(陸昌)을 지나서 칠담(七潭), 팔만암(八萬巖:철원군 동송읍 양지리 소재)을 이루고 영평현의 북쪽에 이르러 화적연이 된다’
이 기록에 의하면 허목은 한탄강 발원지가 쌍령의 북쪽 산줄기에 있는 북한쪽 회양군 소재 청화산 남쪽 산록에서 발원하는 것으로 기록하고 있다.
고산자 김정호(1804~1866)가 1861년에 완성한 대동여지도(大東輿地圖)에 의하면 분수령(分水嶺)을 경계로 하여 남쪽으로 한탄강이, 북쪽으로 안변의 남대천(南大川)이 흐른다. 대동여지도 상에 한탄강 최상류는 Y자 모양으로 두 갈래로 나누어졌는데, 왼쪽 지류는 분수령 남쪽 산록에서, 오른쪽 지류는 백영산(白永山) 남쪽 산록에서 발원하는 것으로 나타나 있다. 이 두 지류가 검불랑(儉佛郞) 아래에서 만나서 넓은 여울 즉 광탄(廣灘)을 이룬다.
현재 한탄강의 발원지가 평강군 현내면 상원리 소재 백자산 북쪽 산록이기에 대동여지도 상에 분수령을 발원지로 한 왼쪽 지류나, 백영산을 발원지로 한 오른쪽 지류는 모두 실제의 물줄기보다 북쪽으로 더 길게 그려 놓은 것이 된다.
고산자가 대동여지도 보다 27년 앞서 1834에 완성한 청구도에 의하면 한탄강의 최상류는 대동여지도와 똑같이 Y자 모양으로 두 갈래로 갈라졌는데 왼쪽 오른쪽 지류 모두 백자산 북쪽에서 시작하는 것으로 나타나 있다.
그러나 아이러니컬하게도 그는 청구도상에는 한탄강 발원지를 백자산으로 정확하게 그려놓고는, 27년 후에 발행된 대동여지도상에는 오히려 북쪽으로 길게 그려넣는 오류를 범하고 있다.
김정호가 지은 ‘대동지지(大東地志)’의 평강 산수(山水)조에도 ‘帳岩山東北五十里右二山淮陽界, 栢子山東北三十五里’라고 기록돼 있어 평강 동북쪽 35리 지점에 백자산이, 50리 지점에 장암산이 있음을 알 수 있다.
통일원이 1994년에 북한에서 발행한 여러 책자를 종합해 편찬한 ‘북한의 자연지리와 사적’이란 책에도 한탄강 발원지가 강원도 평강군 백자산이며 길이는 139.6㎞, 유역넓이는 2,466.5㎞로 표시돼 있다. 한탄강 발원지가 북쪽에 위치한 관계로 북한 쪽에서 발원지로 기록한 백자산에 더 정확성이 있는 것으로 보인다.
건설교통부·수자원공사가 2000년에 발간한 ‘한탄강댐 기본설계 보고서’에도 한탄강의 발원지가 강원도 평강군 백자산(북망산) 북쪽 기슭이며, 총 길이가 141㎞(남한 86㎞, 북한55㎞)로 기록돼 있다.
그러나 철원군청에서 1992년에 발행된 철원군지(상권)에는 한탄강의 발원지를 황성산 및 철령(평강군 현내면 신정리)으로 또 다르게 표기해 놓고 있다.
한탄강의 발원지와 길이에 대한 통일된 공식 기록이 있어야 할 것으로 보인다.
글·사진/이연섭 문화부장 yslee@kgib.co.kr
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