한탄강 사랑 :: 전혀 뜻밖의 유산 DMZ

이름: 함광복

2008/4/15(화)

전혀 뜻밖의 유산 DMZ

1953년 7월 27일 월요일 오전 판문점에서 휴전협정이 조인됐다. 전선의 고지들은 조용해 졌다. 바다에서는 군함들이 귀항했고, 전투기들은 그들의 비행장에 조용히 내려앉았다. 전쟁은 끝났다. 휴전이다. 남북은 즉각 2㎞씩 뒤로 후퇴하면서, 그 사이를 비무장지대(Demilitarized Zone)라는 완충지대로 만들었다. 그리고 남쪽은 DMZ 후방 5∼20㎞ 밖에 민간인 통제선(Civilian Control Line)이란 또 다른 선이 생겼다.

DMZ는 군대의 주둔이나 무기의 배치, 군사시설의 설치를 금지하도록 약속한 지대다. 그리고 민간인 통제선은 이 약속을 효율적으로 준수하기 위해 말 그대로 민간인이 거주하거나, 산업활동을 하지 못하도록 남쪽의 필요에 따라 만든 지대다. 물론 북쪽도 비슷한 목적의 그런 지대를 만들어 놓았을 것이다. 한반도 허리를 구불구불 횡단하는 띠는 그렇게 만들어졌다.

그후 50년이 지나 한 세기가 가고 또 다른 세기가 왔다. '그 띠가 어떻게 변해있을까?' 사람들의 머리 속에 20세기가 지구에 남기고 간 이 동서냉전의 흉터가 떠오르기 시작했다.

많은 사람들이 그곳은 풀과 나무가 마음껏 자라고, 새와 물고기가 거칠 것 없으며, 온갖 야생동물이 뛰어 놀아도 그들의 훼방꾼은 없을 것이라고 상상했다. 그런 상상이 발단이었을 것이다. 반세기 전 남과 북은 전쟁으로 서로 한쪽을 잃었지만, 그 반사적 이익으로 '자연생태계의 寶庫' 하나를 얻은 사실을 발견해 낸 것이다.

뒤늦게 찾아가 본 그곳에서는 자연이 자신들의 새 질서를 꾸며 가며 아주 특이한 자연생태계를 전개해 놓고 있었다. 戰場을 찾아 왔던 돼지풀이 토착식물을 밀어내며 치열한 영역 다툼을 하고 있었으며, 인간이 떠난 빈 마을을 아카시아, 버드나무, 갈대 숲이 차지해 놓고 있었다. 지뢰가 묻힌 그곳을 사람은 두려워했지만 자연은 아무런 두려움 없이 그 땅을 점령해 버렸으며, 그 속엔 이미 사라져버린 조나 팥, 귀리, 면화, 옥수수, 감자 따위가 혼자 자라고 있을 것 같기도 했다.
그런가 하면 멀리 시베리아에서 두루미, 재두루미가 그리고 몽골 고원의 독수리가 떼를 지어 찾아왔으며, 멸종된 줄만 알았던 산양 떼가 살고 있었다.

그곳에선 아직 인간의 전쟁은 끝나지 않았다. 그러나 자연은 인간의 의도와는 아무 관계없이 그곳을 지구에 단 하나밖에 없는 '자연생태공원'으로 만들어 놓고 있었다. 그러나 그곳은 찬찬히 들여다보면 볼수록, 곰곰이 생각하면 할 수록 흥미로운 곳이다.

그곳은 50여년전 전쟁을 할 때, 세계 각국의 무기 성능을 시험해보던 곳이다. 갖가지 전략과 전술이 짜여지고 실천됐던 곳이다. 그리고 지금은 개선하고 개량한 냉전 두 진영의 최첨단 무기가 '전시'되고 있는 곳이다. 군인들의 군복과 계급장, 내무생활과 군기, 병사들의 먹고 자는 방법 등 한국군과 북한군, 자유진영과 공산진영의 군대에 관한 과거와 현재가 존재하는 곳이다.

온갖 전쟁의 도구와 전략과 전술을 모아다 놓은 지구상에 한군데밖에 없으면서도 지금도 활용하고 있는 거대한 전쟁박물관인 것이다. 그곳은 DMZ권 문화라는 새로운 문화를 빚어 놓은 곳이기도 하다. 오랜 세월 전국 각처에서 모여든 사람들이 가져 온 이질문화와 군사문화가 뒤섞이고 충돌하며 아주 색다른 문화를 빚어냈다. 어떤 이는 DMZ, 그곳을 한국판 '멜팅 포트(Melting Pot)'라고까지 부르고 있다. 그런가하면 그곳엔 반세기 전 우리가 살던 모습, 풍습과 풍속도 그대로 묻혀있다. 그곳은 살아있는 냉전사회학 교실인 것이다.

천년고도 궁예도성은 지금 남쪽과 북쪽 어디로도 치우치지 않고 비무장지대 한가운데 들어앉아 잠들어 있다. DMZ는 그 옛날에도 세력간의 각축이 치열하던 곳이다. 지금 수많은 關防유적들이 그 흔적이 되어 널려있다. 마침 이들 유적은 비록 방치되긴 했으나 섣부른 발굴이나 개발의 손때를 타지 않았다. DMZ는 거대한 역사유적지인 것이다.

천년고도 궁예도성은 지금 남쪽과 북쪽 어디로도 치우치지 않고 비무장지대 한가운데 들어앉아 잠들어 있다. DMZ는 그 옛날에도 세력간의 각축이 치열하던 곳이다. 지금 수많은 關防유적들이 그 흔적이 되어 널려있다. 마침 이들 유적은 비록 방치되긴 했으나 섣부른 발굴이나 개발의 손때를 타지 않았다. DMZ는 거대한 역사유적지인 것이다.

철원의 북한 노동당사는 해방공간에 세워진 유일한 건물이다. 그리고 한탄강 승일교는 북한 이 '다리 미학의 백미' 란 말을 듣고 있다. 북한 건축을 알 수 있는 아주 중요한 단서들인 것이다. 그리고 철원 제일감리교회, 얼음창고, 동주금융조합, 제사공장, 철원역, 월정역의 잔해가 널려있는 옛 철원읍은 우리가 미처 깨닫지 못하던 도시유적지이다. 그곳은 근·현대사의 내용들을 속속들이 간직하고 있는 세계적인 건축·토목사 박물관인 것이다.

그리고 그곳은 오리산에서 분출한 용암이 빚어 낸 철원평야와 운석이 떨어져 파였다는 해안분지 가 있는 지리학 교실이며, 전쟁을 치르는 동안 12명의 기독교도가 순교한 '바이블 루트'이다. 그곳은 20세기가 남기고 간 냉전유적지인 것이다. 그런가 하면 한국의 과거와 현재, 미래를 고스란히 담고 있는 '한국 자연사 박물관'이다. DMZ는 전혀 뜻밖의 자원을 유산으로 남겨놓았다.

(함광복, 咸光福, Ham Kwang Bok)

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